Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement.
By : gtpV65, www.v4hondabbs.com

MattC (with me watching mostly) developed a shortcut for the cam chain
tensioner replacement. Do one head at a time.
If you dont want to remove the alternator cover some people put the bike
in 6th gear and rotate engine as needed using rear wheel.

1. Pull the valve cover off.

2. Remove the front camshaft only. We wired the chain to the
the rear sprocket and used a sharpie to mark the chain and sprocket
in the front. This makes it easier to relocate the chain on the sprocket.
Might not be a bad idea to mark a cam ear also to avoid putting the cam
back in 180 degrees off.

Do not rotate engine until camshaft has been put back in.

3. Remove old tensioner.

4. Replace the small pin in the NEW tensioner with a bent coat hanger
so that you wont drop the small pin down the cam tunnel. Do not make
the inserted piece of hangar to long or you wont be able to remove it once
the tensioner is installed.

5. We DID NOT replace the tensioner tower bolts. We used some very complicated
algorithms (we guessed and prayed) to tighten the tower bolts securely when putting
the new tensioner in.
We never did find torque specs for those bolts.

6. Clean the ears and sprocket threads so loctite will bind properly.
Torque the sprocket bolts BEFORE reinstalling the cam holder on the right side or
you wont have room for the wrench.

Once buttoned up the engine was noisy at first but settled down and seems to run well.

PICTURES :

Trykk på bildene for å vise forstørrelse	Cam Holder Off
Cam Out	Sharpie Marked Sprocket and Chain. Also shown wired but you dont have to do that if you use the sharpie marks.
Hangar replacing original wire that came installed in new tensioner. Again, dont make the piece going into tensioner any longer than necessary.	Red Arrow indicate guides you need to be sure to clear when putting the tensioner slipper/band down in tunnel.
Side by side shot of old vs. new tensioners. Note how short the new one is and the different angle of the tensioner rod as a result.	Much easier to only remove one cam isn't it. Replacing one tensioner tower at a time is really the only way to do it, unless you have to send your cams out for reworking, then you don't have a lot of choice. :-( Any bolts where the torque specs are not listed use standard torque values for metric bolts, a quick google search will find them. Congrats, Bob